Deirdre Roberson: The Chemist-Turned-Designer Redefining Beauty Through EUMELANIN
When science meets style, the results can be nothing short of revolutionary. Deirdre Roberson, a chemist with a passion for fashion, has created EUMELANIN, a brand that beautifully intertwines the worlds of science and design to challenge societal norms and celebrate the rich diversity of melanated skin.
With her signature HEX Bag as the brand’s centerpiece, Deirdre draws inspiration from the vast spectrum of black and brown skin tones, each bag named in honor of a fashion trailblazer who embodies the spirit of their shade.
But Deirdre’s innovation doesn’t stop at aesthetics—she’s taken the bold step of trademarking the chemical structure of melanin, a move that not only protects her brand but also empowers her to redefine beauty on her own terms. In our interview, we explore how this visionary entrepreneur is using her unique blend of expertise to make waves in the fashion industry and beyond.
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How did your background in chemistry influence your approach to fashion design?
My background in chemistry greatly influences my approach to fashion design, as it draws inspiration from organic chemistry. The chemical structure of melanin, also known as the melanin molecule, and its hexagonal design, are central to our designs. This structure, which includes black and brown pigments, directly inspires our color palette. We use science not only to inform the shapes of our products, such as the hexagon but also to select colors, making science a focal point in our designs.
What was the initial spark that led to the creation of EUMELANIN? Was there a specific moment or experience that inspired you?
It wasn’t just one spark but a series of moments throughout my life. From falling in love with sewing in middle school to discovering fashion and chemistry in high school and college, I realized I could bring these passions together. The moment I googled “EUMELANIN” and saw how it could unite my love for science, design, history, and black culture, everything clicked. The desire to tell stories of black beauty and history that are often overlooked fueled the creation of EUMELANIN.
How do you incorporate the concept of colorism and the celebration of melanated skin into your designs?
Our brand speaks to colorism by centering our color palette around deep, rich melanin-rich hues. Society often deems deep dark skin as less beautiful, but we challenge this by making it the anchor of our brand. We engage with our community to celebrate these skin tones, showing their true beauty and significance.
The HEX Bag is the flagship product of EUMELANIN. Can you tell us more about the design and inspiration behind it?
Yes, the HEX Bag, short for hexagon, is inspired by the hexagonal shapes prevalent in science, specifically in the chemical structure of melanin, where the hexagon shape is repeated three times. The color of our handbags, as well as our overall color palette, is based on melanin-rich pigments.
How did you decide on naming each handbag after a fashion trailblazer, and what criteria did you use to choose these individuals?
Each color in our palette is named after a black fashion pioneer. This idea came from my research into black fashion history. Learning about figures like Hylan Booker, Zelda Wynn Valdes, Willi Smith, and Elizabeth Keckley, I felt a deep connection and knew their stories deserved to be celebrated. This naming process ensures their legacies are remembered and honored through our products.
Owning the trademark of the chemical structure of melanin is a unique and strategic move. What motivated you to take this step?
When I created EUMELANIN, I knew it was something special. To protect our designs and intellectual property, I secured several trademarks, including the chemical structure of melanin. This is a core element of our brand and having it protected allows us to build and maintain our uniqueness and longevity.
In what ways do you see this trademark creating new revenue opportunities for EUMELANIN?
Intellectual property is crucial for brand growth and leverage. While we might explore licensing in the future, our current focus is on building a strong brand and protecting it, ensuring we can capitalize on our unique elements.
What were some of the biggest challenges you faced in launching and establishing EUMELANIN?
Funding was a major challenge. I started EUMELANIN with about $100 and relied heavily on my skills. I built the website, filed documents, and managed pre-orders to fund inventory. Doing everything alone for the first two years was tough, but it taught me resilience and resourcefulness.
What are your plans for the future expansion of EUMELANIN?
We plan to continue expanding our handbags and accessories and aim to get into retail stores like Saks and Bloomingdale’s. Our goal is to release culturally resonant products that not only represent our community but also stand out in design and craftsmanship.
Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that you’re excited about?
We are debuting our HEX Bag Mini at the Project Show in Vegas from August 19-21. This has been our most requested product, and we’re excited about the potential future collaborations that align with our brand’s values and vision.
How do you envision the long-term impact of EUMELANIN on the fashion industry and beyond?
I’m building EUMELANIN to last beyond my lifetime. My vision is for it to be a black-owned luxury brand that celebrates and empowers black people. I want it to be known for its quality, storytelling, and commitment to showcasing the beauty of melanin-rich skin. The long-term vision for EUMELANIN is to become a leading luxury fashion brand that not only offers high-quality, culturally resonant products but also champions inclusivity and representation in the fashion industry.
We aim to expand our product line, increase our global presence, and continue telling the stories of black fashion pioneers. Our mission is to inspire and empower black and brown communities, challenging traditional beauty norms and honoring melanin-rich skin tones through innovative and exquisite designs.
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